In general, when processing images in the Nik Collection, maintain maximum quality workflow. You will be able to modify your files afterwards, depending on their usage, during the export phase in DxO PhotoLab.
Nik Software Workflow Pdf Download
In general, when processing images in the Nik Collection, maintain maximum quality workflow. You will be able to modify your files afterwards, depending on their use, during the export phase in Lightroom Classic.
Smart Copy/Paste mode is a great way to speed up workflow with the ability to apply the latest corrections made in the Nik Collection to a batch of images ready to be exported by Lightroom Classic. There are two scenarios: copy/paste settings within Lightroom Classic, and copy/paste via the Export menu.
Provided you are opening a TIFF file, you can use the reversible workflow available in standalone mode from version 3.0 of the Nik Collection onwards. For more information, see the Non-Destructive Workflow page in this chapter.
The principle of the reversible, non-destructive workflow is based on encapsulating a second TIFF file in the TIFF file generated during transfer from the host application to the Nik Collection (or during the workflow in standalone mode). This doubles the size of the file that contains an input TIFF, an output TIFF, and the parameters and settings applied in the Nik Collection.
However, there is still room for improvement in Nik Collection 5. DxO should consider introducing new filters and improving the software performance instead of focusing just in interface updates. Keep reading to find out more.
In the first few months after buying the Canon PRO-1000, I spent a lot of time figuring out a good and efficient printing workflow. This article describes the steps I now take for preparing an image for print and sending it to the printer, with the hope to help other beginners like me finding their own workflow. The earlier parts of the described workflow are independent from the printer make and model, but some parts of the actual printing will be relevant only to owners of Canon printers. Suggestions, comments or questions are very welcome, feel free to contact me anytime.
Note: while the original version of this article was published in 2018, it has been kept up to date with changes in my workflow and updates to the software I use. With the last update written in May 2022, it is therefore by no means outdated.
For further reading I can recommend the (German) Fine Art Printer magazine. You can order back issues in print or as PDF via their online shop. In issue 2/2016 they had an article on printing workflow, which partly inspired my own workflow. They also sell their own Photoshop actions for various steps of the printing workflow, however those work only in German-language Photoshop.
Another important part of my workflow are the different plugins that make up the NIK Collection, a software with a quite eventful history. First it was developed by NIK Software and sold commercially. Then Google bought NIK Software and distributed the software for free, but at some point stopped the development. In 2017 DXO bought the software from Google and in June 2018 started selling a first update commercially. That version contains only marginal update, so for now the free Google version will most likely do the job for you, and you can still find it on some download sites. For my advanced printing workflow I use the Photoshop version of the NIK plugins since I use them in combination with Photoshops tools for scaling. Sidenote: For other editing purposes such as black and white conversions with Silver Efex Pro, I now go the direct route via the Lightroom version of the NIK plugins, since DXO has now finally implemented a feature for non-destructive editing directly from Lightroom (previously you had to use Photoshop Smart Filters to achieve this with the NIK plugins).
Raw images do not have a color space and Lightroom always works with Melissa RGB in the development module, which is a variant of ProPhoto RGB. So up to this point, there are no choices to make. However in image editing software like Photoshop, the user chooses the color space and color depth to work in. My recommendation is to use ProPhoto RGB as working color space and a color depth of 16 bit.
Regarding the color depth of 16 bit: especially when working with larger color spaces like ProPhoto RGB, the choice of 16 bit will allow you to retain smooth gradients during all kinds of image manipulations and when printing. Similar to the color space this choice allows you to go through your workflow with the least loss of information possible. To send images to the PRO-1000 in 16 bit you need to use the XPS driver instead of the standard driver. When you install the XPS driver, it will show up as a separate printer in Windows, which you then can choose in the printer dialogue of Lightroom.
Regarding color spaces, the PPL manual only briefly mentions Adobe RGB and sRGB. However, when opening an image in the ProPhoto RGB color space from Photoshop the color space is recognized (see the screenshot below) and the image is printed correctly. When using the Lightroom plugin the same limitation applies as for PSP, the way the plugin is registered forces Lightroom to convert the image to Adobe RGB, therefore potentially loosing color information. My workflow is based on ProPhoto RGB, the reasoning for which I explained in yet another of my blog articles, therefore I would always go the route via Photoshop when printing from PPL.
Note: while the original version of this article was published in 2018, it has been kept up to date with changes in my workflow and updates to the software I use. With the last update written in May 2022, it is therefore by no means outdated.\n\n
Step 1: Always finish your photo editing process prior to using noise reduction software. Photoshop noise reduction, using either Nik Define or Imagenomic, should always be the last step.
Complemented with a new Soft Proofing mode for accurate prints, this is photo editing software that transforms your images into stunning works of art. Simulate ink and paper, and protect saturated colors for absolute precision.
When I reached out to tech support they didn't respond for weeks, I hounded them and finally got an answer - which was terribly unsatisfying. Basically, to uninstall and reinstall both v.3 the first time, and then when v.4 came out they needed me to do that again. Neither time resolved the issue. I went back and forth for weeks, lost time on my active projects and had to manually try to rebuild about 27 templates. One of the worst customer service experiences I have had. DXO never did anything to actually resolve the issue. No apology either. Definitely considering another software for these types of conversions, but sucks to lose over 10 years of experience and knowledge of the software and have to start over. 2ff7e9595c
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